Since the early Bronze Age the sword has been a sign of wealth, status and the power of divine right. Yet, before the sixteenth century the sword was almost never carried on the person in everyday life. It was a rare, noble weapon, carried into battle by the aristocratic warrior class but set aside in time of peace. However, the increasing prominence of the Renaissance middle classes brought a fundamental change to the sword's place in society. Now large numbers of non-noble but often wealthy and upwardly mobile people could also afford rich things like fine clothes, jewelry and weapons. More
Costume and textiles
THREADS OF FEELING: The London Foundling Hospital's Textile Tokens 1740–1770
72 pages, paperback, 245 x 185 mm, 60 colour illustrations
NOW ONLY AVAILABLE TO BUY THROUGH THE FOUNDLING MUSEUM
By John Styles
When mothers left babies at London’s Foundling Hospital in the mid-eighteenth century, the Hospital often retained a small token as a means of identification, usually a piece of fabric. These swatches of fabric now form Britain’s largest collection of everyday textiles from the eighteenth century. They include the whole range of fabrics worn by ordinary women, along with ribbons, embroidery and even some baby clothes. Beautiful and poignant, each scrap of material reflects the life of an infant child and that of its absent parent. The enthralling stories the fabrics tell about textiles, fashion, women’s skills, infant clothing and maternal emotion are the material of Threads of Feeling.
The importance of the Foundling textiles – 5,000 rare, beautiful, mundane and moving scraps of fabric – lies in the fact that so few pieces of eighteenth-century clothing have otherwise survived that can be identified with any confidence as having belonged to the poor. Ordinary people’s clothes were worn and re-worn by a succession of owners until they fell into rags, or they were cut up and reused for quilts, baby clothes, and the like. If, by chance, they outlived the eighteenth century, they were unlikely to excite the attention of collectors or museums. The Foundling collection includes the whole range of textile fabrics worn by ordinary women – exposing a lost world of camblet and fustian, susy and cherryderry, calimanco and linsey-woolsey – along with ribbons, embroidery and even some baby clothes.
John Styles, curator of the exhibition and author of this book, examines the history of the Foundling Hospital and its tokens; the range of textiles in the collection; 18th-century working womens' fashion; the importance and meaning of ribbons and cockades; baby clothes of the period; needlework; and the numerous expressions of maternal love, hope, yearning and remorse revealed by some of the textiles and their accompanying notes.
Accompanies an exhibition at the Foundling Museum, London 14 October 2010–6 March 2011
READ A REVIEW
Austen Only "This is a marvellous, thought provoking, once in a lifetime exhibit and experience. I can’t praise it highly enough. Go and see it: you will not regret it."
Spoonfed "Such small things as these, which could easily be dismissed as frivolous, useless discarded scraps, speak more coherently, more powerfully, and with greater tenderness than words alone ever could."
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